Saturday, July 14, 2018

Kilchoman Loch Gorm 2017 Release

I first had this delectable Islay Scotch at a Kilchoman tasting back in the fall of 2016. It's Kilchoman's entirely sherry-aged offering, and I took an immediate liking to it. Unlike the Single Cask releases, which have a strong (and incredible) savory element, like barbecue ribs, Loch Gorm is more subtle, and perhaps a little more pure. So I bought a bottle, which I just opened.


 Aged exclusively in Oloroso Sherry butts, this is one of 13,500 bottles in the wild. Released in Kilchoman's typical craft presentation - no coloring, no chill-filtering, at 46% ABV. 

Nose: Delicious and harmonious nose. Brown sugar, chocolate, overripe berries of all kinds, oats, peat, and crusts of sea salt. All balanced and quite pure - each scent is easily picked out and enjoyed. Opens up considerably with time in the glass. 

Mouthfeel: Thick, viscous, oily. 

Palate: The peat is much stronger across the palate than on the nose. Initial blast of peat, a little smoke, pepper, toast with strawberry jam, a sweetness - honey?, and more salt. Peat and smoke at the end as well. The peat is unusual - it's not the maritime blast of Arbeg or Laphroaig, but it's not a dry mountain peat either. It's a thick bog peat, wet and earthy, with salt water elements but without the iodine and seaweed flavors you get with the aforementioned distilleries. Lake peat?

Finish: Long drying finish of oak, pepper, dried red fruit, and very thick peat. Stays with you.

Verdict: A surprisingly subtle Islay offering - while it does maintain a healthy amount of peat, the flavors that compliment it are rich, complex, balanced, and full of surprises. Inviting, never harsh, and exceptionally mature for  it's young age (7 years). 

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