I have a strange fondness for Linkwood, even though I've only ever had one bottle of their whisky, and that was an independent bottling from Signatory. Still, that one bottle made a big impression on me - it was a light, delicate, textured dram with lots of flavor even at 46%. So imagine my delight when the Scotch Malt Whisky Society ("SMWS") had a big sale this week in honor of the Highland Games, and one of their bottles was from Linkwood!
Linkwood is, of course, owned by Diageo; this means the lion's share of their spirit goes into blends like Johnnie Walker and White Horse. I've read that Linkwood is present in the ever-delightful Johnnie Walker Green, which I still maintain is the best of the JW lineup. Once in a blue moon, Diageo will release an official Linkwood bottling, but it's pretty rare, and I've never seen one in the wild.
Here are the official tasting notes from SMWS:
A refreshing cup of mint and apple tea freshened the senses as Victoria sponge cake and rich tea biscuits arrived. A large bowl of fruit brought zesty aromas of lime, orange peel and overripe pineapples while sugary sweetness suggested candyfloss and marshmallows. The palate too was full of vim and vigour with popping candy, icing sugar and lemon sherbet bouncing off fresh cherries, lime marmalade and ginger. A more fragrant side appeared with water as hibiscus flowers, coconut chocolates and Earl Grey tea merged with white chocolate and Pina coladas. Remaining fresh on the tongue we now found strawberry lollipops and fresh oak but with creamy notes of crème brûlée, cream liqueur and just a dash of soy sauce on the finish.
Part of the "Spicy and Sweet" flavor profile, this spirit was aged 8 years in a 1st fill ex-bourbon barrel, and bottled at a very robust 62.3% ABV. I'm especially interested in the apple tea, the overripe pineapple, and the marshmallows. In the US market, this is nicknamed "Summer Gardens and Funfairs," but in the UK (and presumably other markets) it was "Full of Vim and Vigor," both of which are interesting and encouraging. Let's dig in...
Nose: Just as I remembered from the Signatory bottle: a gentle, textured, light series of aromas. Juicy apples come first and foremost - red delicious or maybe gala. Yellow birthday cake - complete with icing. Sweet citrus, like clementines or sumo oranges. After some time in the glass, the marshmallow definitely comes forward, but it's orange-scented. Orange taffy? It's a big fluffy sugary orange flavor.
Counterpointing all of this is a subtle but solid sulfur/meaty note - somewhat like you find in Craigellachie. When I googled reviews of other Linkwood bottlings, I found quite a lot of references to sulfur, so it must be part of the character of the distillate. I like it - it makes all the sweetness less cloying, and rounds out the nose very well. There is also a bit of alcohol fumes, as you would image at 62.3%.
With water, the addition of perhaps some light floral elements are added - the official notes say "hibiscus," and I suppose that could be accurate. Also the pineapple finally arrives. The orange marshmallow/taffy note decreases noticeably.
Mouthfeel: Surprisingly robust. Oily.
Palate: Hot! A broad scythe of alcohol evaporates to reveal applesauce, a bigger sulfur presence, bright semi-sour lemon candies (like Lemonheads), lime soda, and some spicy wasabi/ginger notes. Quite a managerie! Very tasty. There is also an interesting dry white wine aspect going on here, but I'm not sure what to make of it.
With a splash of water, the lime and ginger come closer to the front: like ginger beer with a lime wedge.
Finish: As with many young Speysides, this is the weakest element. Apple cores: bitter apples, a very small oak presence, and echoes of sulfur (which, weirdly, resolve as soy sauce - the official notes are spot-on with that one). Quite short.
Verdict: Well, this is a young, brash powerhouse despite the delicate texture of the spirit. Full flavors! I especially liked the crisp fruit - apple, lemon, lime - which is surprisingly ethereal, like soda. I also loved the ginger beer-esque flavor when water was added! I never quite got the overripeness, or tea, or the coconut chocolates, but no matter - what I did taste was very nice. A win for Linkwood! A great summer sipper.
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