Wednesday, November 3, 2021

Glenturret 11 Year (SMWS 16.52 "Campfire Breakfast on a Damp Morning")

 


I have absolutely loved and respected the three previous peated single cask Glenturrets I've had from the Scotch Malt Whisky Society ("SMWS"). They were real surprises, richly flavored, with a very distinct rich sweetness paired to a note of fresh pencil shavings (!). This bottle is, of course, also heavily peated, and was a lottery release, chosen at last year's tasting panel experience by US members - it's exclusive to the US SMWS. 

Here are the official notes:

Fall in the Highlands with its deep amber hue, a gorgeous liquid slow dancing in the glass. A mild and mellow nose-feel, notes of campfire toasted marshmallows, smoked salami and juicy fresh orange juice. Dried fruits, figs and crystallised orange peels contribute to a comfortable and comforting moment in time. A little water raises damp, earthy, mossy notes and increases the scents of smoke and ash, like waking up to the smell of bacon fat from your tent, the smell of damp earth surrounds you. Smoked brisket rides in on a lightly oiled mouthfeel that slightly spritzes across the tongue, and is carried off by a drying, long smoky finish of fatty burnt ends in wellies bound in hessian. A sweet pop of fondant settles in the mid-palate with a dash of water. An adventurous spirit, bound to transport you to camping, Highland style. 

Count me in. Things I particularly like here: marshmallows, orange juice, crystallized orange peels (love those) ... moss and earth... bacon and brisket! This sounds very similar to a previous bottle of Glenturret I had, called "Confessions of a Barbecue." 

Glenturret has existed in some shape or form since the late 1800s, although the current establishment dates to about 1957. For many years it was one of the backbones of The Famous Grouse blend, and in fact was the home of "The Famous Grouse Experience" - which I've seen described as Whisky Disney (!!!). Currently owned by the Lalique Group (as of 2021), their only Scotch distillery that I'm aware of. 

Bottled at a very strong 63.4% ABV, after maturing 11 years in a re-charred American oak hogshead. Let's immediately taste this:

Nose: Fresh pencil shavings, right off the top: freshly shaved cedar wood and graphite. This is followed by a rather dark smoked ham note (almost like Spanish dry cured chorizo), and a dark red dried fruit note like dried prunes. This is quite woody and smoky, but has a dark fruit undercurrent at all times - I don't get the bright citrus "orange juice" that the official notes do, but I might be persuaded to say "orange peels," like the curls they use on the rim of cocktails. Over time, a certain Earl Grey tea note emerges - quite pleasant!

Without hesitation, though, I would say damp, earthy moss, wet leaves, forest flavors, and bacon fat. It's very rich. You get something slightly different with each sniff. Exceedingly complex. 

With a few drops of water, this becomes quite floral and herbal. The violet note previously found only in the finish comes out a bit here. Still loads of wood smoke, though. 

Mouthfeel: A very thick whisky. 

Palate: Wow, the flavor doesn't disappoint! BBQ is the first thing that comes to mind: smoked meat with a red tomato-based sauce - like pulled pork. There is a strange, faint red wine tannic note here, although I don't think this whisky has had any contact with a red wine cask... unsure what I am tasting there. Dry and smoking cedar wood. Metallic lead from pencils. A surprising honey-like sweetness towards the end of the development. Heavy ash. 

With a few drops of water, this gets a little sweeter, and that curious red wine note gets a little stronger. I still don't know what could be causing it! 

Finish: Ash, smoke, ash, smoke, ash, smoke... and barbecued meat. In that order. Lasts a very, very long time. Wait, what's this... the final flavor I'm getting is ... violets! Yes, like you find in creme de violette. What a strange and enchanting flavor to encounter!

Verdict: Well, I can see how this won last year's tasting session - it's surprisingly rich at 11 years, punches well above its weight class (so to speak), and has a lot going on. I can't over that final violet flavor! If you don't mind heavily smoked Highland whisky, especially one with a lot of "meaty" flavors... or if you are romantically involved with #2 lead pencils... you will adore this. All others, be advised. 

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