It is a truth universally acknowledged that an official bottling Bowmore is the worst expression of the Islay distillery, and that the distillate is best showcased in independent bottlings which have, as a result, steadily crept up in price over the years. This particular bottle hails from the Scotch Malt Whisky Society ("SMWS").
No one knows what is going on over at Bowmore, but the opinion I just laid out is the party line everywhere that scotch drinkers gather. I've heard it on Reddit, in whisky bars, from friends, liquor store owners, everywhere. I have, in fact, discussed it in numerous posts on Bowmore here on the blog. They clearly get under my skin a bit.
For whatever reason, Bowmore insists on filtering, coloring, and neutering their whisky. That the 12 Year (just as an example) is served up to we the public at a watery, minimal 40% is plainly insulting when the entire industry seems to be moving steadily to 43-46% territory. Beam Suntory is really dropping the ball. I've also read stories that the Bowmore distillery tour is, shall we say, extremely brief and lackluster. It's impossible to recommend their official line.
But I've had a couple wonderful examples of Bowmore in independent form, and heard numerous stories from the same sources listed above that Bowmore is capable of beautiful whisky, when it's taken out of their hands early and matured elsewhere, released by wiser heads than theirs.
The last older Bowmore I had was a curious one - 14 years in ex-bourbon, 3 years in a STR barrique, resulted in a really appealing, delicious whisky that I suspect had a lot more cask influence than average. It was an ashy, honey-soaked fragrant whisky that was full of tropical fruit and pungent earthy flavors akin to sauteed mushrooms. Really good stuff.
This one is also 17 years old, but entirely in a second-fill hogshead. Here are the official notes:
The initial aroma suggested crayons, scented peat smoke, dried flowers, roof tar and smoke teas. A waft of hessian cloth, expensive olive oil and umami notes of miso and dried seaweed. Then a scattering of crystallised exotic fruits. A marvellous and enchanting nose. Water added Lapsang souchong tea, malt vinegar, eucalyptus oils and fir wood. The neat palate was superbly rich, textural and showing a thrilling complexity. Intricate smoke flavours, myriad subtle tropical fruits, passion fruit cordial, lemon cough drops and dried mango chunks. With reduction came dried flowers, mineral salts, bandages, brine, charred pineapple, smoked sea salt and a kiss of grapefruit acidity.
Crayons - wax? Floral, scented smoke is what I normally associate with Bowmore, so that's promising too. I am quite curious about umami notes, smoked tea, and fir wood. Also curious about the bandages and brine - Bowmore is one of the more lightly peated of the Islay distilleries. Bottled at cask strength (56.3% ABV), let's see just how technicolor this panoramic is:
Nose: Wow, intriguing: honey and peat, together, is the first thing I sniff. It's smoky, and the smoke is floral, but not the Big Lavender Perfume note I often get with Bowmore. I think the peat must overtake it a bit: here I mostly get nondescript field flowers.
There is also a distinct waxiness here - I understand the "crayons" note that SMWS has. It's almost as waxy as Clynelish, in fact. Like a honey-and-dirt candle that's just dried. I also get strong hints of raw burlap/sackcloth, anchovies (!), black tea, and - maybe, it could be all in my mind - miso soup that's been served by the seaside. This is surprisingly coastal. It is definitely the most "raw" Bowmore I've ever had. It's much more typically Islay than the Bowmores I've had in the past. But it's still firmly in the "refined" category - it would never, ever be mistaken for Ardbeg or its kin.
With water, it changes a bit: salt-water taffy (salty sweet), blueberries, vinegar, honey, and a very dark umami note I would call "forest floor." Similar to Edradour, in that way. Still almost alarmingly waxy.
Mouthfeel: Thin, oily.
Palate: This is more like it. After such a curious nose, the palate is more like the familiar Bowmore profile I recognize: mushrooms, pencil shavings, tropical fruit, peat and lavender-scented smoke, honey, oak, pepper, and pools of salty brine. It's still surprisingly coastal, for Bowmore, but is much closer to the other 15-21 year expressions I've had from them. Prawns!?
With water, it is that much more coastal: bandages, brine, hints of iodine, ash, honey, coal, and - yes - grapefruit. That particular note stands out, and is right on the money.
Finish: Big lavender smoke, heather, honey, ash, more ash, still more ash, and graphite pencil wood. Quite nice, the combination of the flowers and ash.
Verdict: I think this is a generally good expression of the Bowmore style, expressed independently: ashy, full of tropical fruit and honey, with unusual turns of wax and sackcloth and a wide swath of coastal notes. Really quite unusual for Islay - it's more like a far northern Highland, like Oban or Clynelish or Highland Park. Civilized yet exciting. This is a good bottle of Bowmore for sure. I look forward to sharing this one with whisky buddy Rob Martin, absolutely. All else: if you see a bottle or a sample, give it a whirl.
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