Peated Tobermory whisky is sold under the name Ledaig (pronounced luh-chaig, as near as I can tell), and Ledaig has been increasingly in popularity steadily over the last several years, with its current reputation hovering somewhere around vaunted peated classics like Ardbeg Ten Year and Laphroaig Ten Year. So when I saw a 14 year bottle from the Scotch Malt Whisky Society ("SMWS") - with the adventurous nickname "Swash and Buckle!" to boot - I pulled the trigger.
Here are the official tasting notes from SMWS:
Mezcal! Exclaimed the panel. Seriously sharp, ester-tinged peat smoke. Then dunder, natural tar, rubber fishing wellies, camphor, dirty boiler smoke and roof pitch. A big, rollicking, swaggering peat monster. Water brought out warm kiln air, drifting peat smoke, black olive tapenade made with smoked olive oil, chalky medicines and herbal toothpaste. The neat palate showed an wonderful initial blast of mentholated peat smoke, then preserved lemons bobbing in brine, oily sheep wool, kelp and bonfire ashes. With water we got pure medicines, seawater, iodine, tar, salt cured venison and smoked fennel. Superb!
Well, I do love me a coastal dram, and the declarations of mezcal and dunder and olives ... it's singing my song, for sure. 14 years in a refill hogshead, bottled at a nice healthy 56.7% ABV, let's wade through the smoke and smog:
Nose: Sweet peat with a healthy dose of brine. I can definitely see the mezcal reference - there is a sharp, smoky. ester-y tang on the nose. Tar and coal ... vanilla. Lots of salt. Hints of vinegar. It's rich and without any nose prickle. Instead, it strangely has almost a cooling influence on the nose. It reminds me of an Ardmore I had a couple years back - oyster brine and vinegar. Very easy to sniff.
With some water, the mezcal influence recedes and a strong cereal note pushes forward - it's almost like cornmeal (!). And a chalky, ceramic-like quality... I can totally see the "kiln" note of the official notes. And yes - hints of black olives come out with water. Very nice.
Mouthfeel: Ridiculously chewy. Almost syrupy.
Palate: HUGE burst of flavor, much like Ardbeg Ten has. Lime, salt, tar, smoke, old rope, burlap, salt, seaweed, wood fire. A bonfire bomb, if there is such a thing. The palate starts with a staggering arrival of hot flavors that slowly unpack on the tongue. Very well done.
With some water, lots of iodine and vanilla and anise. Interesting, how much this one changes with water. It pivots completely both on the nose and the palate. I mildly prefer the diluted profile.
Finish: Medium-long and peaty, as you'd imagine. Ash and pepper are the dominant notes.
Verdict: Well, this is directly comparable to the Islay gang of peated powerhouses, that's for sure. Ledaig/Tobermory is not playing around one bit. This is a serious whisky for peatheads and smoke tossers and ash monsters and ... you get the idea. Highly recommended for those who like salty briny coastal drams.
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