The sixth of nine whiskies at the Scotch Malt Whisky Society ("SMWS") June 2022 Outturn tasting at the Jack Rose Saloon on Sunday, June 5th. This was everyone's favorite of the entire event - every single person raved about it, including the bartenders. A 19 year Mortlach with a two year sherry finish (first fill Oloroso hogshead) with a massive mouthfeel... how can you go wrong?
Here are the official notes:
The aroma reminded us of a good Sunday lunch, pomegranate ginger glazed roast pork tenderloin and carrots or a herb-crusted leg of lamb with a red wine gravy. Big, no massive, on the palate neat! Heat alert, a thick and bold, spicy and slightly smoky Szechuan sauce. Water tamed the beast a little, a Thai tamarind stir fry or a Garam Masala chicken curry on the nose while the taste was that of macerated berries in a Greek Yoghurt with plenty of cinnamon, nutmeg and maze. Following seventeen years in an ex-bourbon hogshead, we transferred this whisky into a 1st fill Spanish oak Oloroso hogshead.
I will say that most of that is right on the money. Bottled at a nice fat 56.3% ABV, let's explore the Beast of Dufftown:
Nose: Pork or beef stew, on the neck pour. A huge meat note right out of the gate. The official note of "ginger glazed pork tenderloin" is accurate here, as is "leg of lamb" with "red wine gravy." There is also a subtle but very rich wood note - like rosewood, freshly shaved down. '
With a splash of water, the sherry deepens - pomegranate, cherry, dried dates, maybe some strawberry. Less meaty. Still a strong wood element, though.
A third of the way into the bottle, the pork/beef note dissipates quite a bit - almost entirely - leaving behind a sort of indiscriminate broth/bouillon note that pairs well with the ginger and the red wine note and especially the rich wood. It's also a little thinner - there must have been a ton of oils in that neck pour - but still very good. There is also a lot of tropical fruit on the nose now.
Mouthfeel: Medium-to-thick and quite viscous, as the reputation would suggest. Really coats the mouth.
Palate: Ah, here is more of that wood note, but expanded several times, an avalanche of wood - cedar, rosewood, furniture polish, sugary oak. But not bitter - full and rounded rather than thin and bitter like some wood notes can be. I particularly agree with the official notes here: odd notes of Thai stir fry, chicken curry, lots of baking spices (cinnamon, nutmeg). A very curious mixture of savory and woody. Unusual.
With water, it's a sherry bomb - thick cherry syrup, wood shavings, curried vegetables... it reminds me not a little of Aberlour A'Bunadh. I also get some coffee and cream and tons of chocolate after the glass sits a while. Delectable.
Finish: Surprisingly short and dry: sweet oak that just evaporates right off your tongue. Not unpleasant, but I wish it was a little longer. With water, it lengthens a bit and goes from short to medium.
Verdict: A lovely whisky, and so kooky and unusual and full of personality! I haven't had anything like this in a while - meat and wood notes for eons, layer after layer. The result is so rich but the clipped finish makes sure it doesn't overstay. Highly recommended. Really worth taking your time with over a full hour, which I rarely say, but it's true here. Has many angles and facets that gradually reveal themselves.
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