Bunnahabhain 12 Year

Ah... my journey through Islay is complete. Bunnahabhain ("Boo-nah-HAH-van," meaning Foot of the River) was the last distillery on my list - from Ardbeg to Kilholmen, Bruichladdich to Lagavulin, Laphroaig to Bowmore, Caol Ila to Bunnahabhain. The distillery dates to at least 1881, and the area is apparently well known for shipwrecks (according to Wikipedia), which lends a nice sinister aspect. The bottle is curiously shaped and designed, and decidedly old-fashioned. 


Much like Bruichladdich, Bunnahabhain is unpeated, and retains instead a unique mossy, mineral, forestal quality. This is their core twelve year expression, recently improved to 46.3% ABV and non-chill filtered. Let's get right to this one, I'm excited.

Nose: Sour! In a good, apple cider kind of way. Very damp and green - moss, grass, damp leaves galore. Extremely complex nose, one of the thickest I've come across - as it sits and opens up over time, I picked up distinct wafts of vanilla, toffee, fudge, hazelnuts, strong rich red wine, sour grapes, a faint whiff of glue and/or turpentine, currants, pears, dark cherries and cherry pits, a little dash of salt and brine and river rocks, and back to the pleasant cider note. 

This reminds me much of Edradour in the richness and complexity, and how it smells a good six or so years older than it is. Immense nose, just fabulous. 

Mouthfeel: Nice, raw, full, good texture - smooth entry but with some volume to it. 

Palate: Full of personality. There is a sort of double action going on - there is at first a cool, smooth, strong red wine element that resolves as bright red fruit (grapes, apples, plums, cherries) and then a sweep of alcohol brings a sudden transformation signaled by the onset of very strong woodland elements which resolve as strong mint/menthol, hints of deep bitter char, salt, and pepper. 

I happen to like this progression quite a lot - there is a unique sweet and sour interplay that is fun to experience, and after the initial burst of flavors, I settle into a groove where I pick out elements I like that work well together - like cherry and mint, or fudge and pepper. 

This follows the nose very well, I find, although the sourness and spice of the cider element in the nose never fully resolves. I expect it does in the 18 Year expression, or in the Toiteach bottling which carries no age statement.

Finish: A surprisingly bright, luminous finish, with pepper, light vanilla, and big splashes of fruit - apple peel - and a cooling menthol presence. 

Verdict: This is quite reminiscent of its Islay neighbor Bruichladdich, especially The Laddie 10 Year, but without the notes I picked up there as rubber and banana. The way the Islay influence comes through in both of them is similar, although Bruichladdich has much more seagoing salt and brine and Bunnahabhain instead substitutes a ton of lush green flavors, woodland influences. I think your personal preference will determine which of the two you prefer. 

Based on reviews I've read around the net, I seem to like this more than most. This is Recommended, without hesitation - an immensely flavorful, fully textured whisky, with a lot to offer across the spectrum. A fun drinking experience, which is rather uncommon. I found this on sale for $55 and took the plunge to finish out my Islay drinking tour. I'm very glad I did - really delicious stuff. 

Website for the Bunnahabhain 12 Year: http://bunnahabhain.com/our-whisky/12-year-old