Wednesday, March 29, 2023

Glenfarclas 9 Year (SMWS 1.231 "A Precious Moment in Time")

 


I've said it before and I'll say it again: Glenfarclas belongs in sherry casks. I've had a number of ex-bourbon single cask bottles of Glenfarclas (all from the Scotch Malt Whisky Society) and I haven't loved a single one of them. Some I didn't even like. 


I particularly don't understand why the SMWS does this with Glenfarclas, the vaunted first distillery ever bottled by the Society. You would think the only 'Farclas they would release would be really phenomenal, prestigious stuff. I sincerely wonder if these ex-bourbon casks are so off profile, or such mistakes, that Glenfarclas basically gave them away. That's how little I've liked them. 

Anyway, here are the official tasting notes:

The nose was a precious moment in time – we reclined in a wooded glade with honeyed tea, scones, clotted cream and blackcurrant jam, composing love letters on coconut and lemon-scented paper, while lime tree blossoms fell. On tasting it, time sped forward to a sumptuous lunch of Mediterranean couscous followed by syrupy pears, dark chocolate, frangipani and orange-zested madeleines – the landscape now whispered honeysuckle and gorse. With a drop of water, the nose found vanilla, apricot, glazed cherries and a posy of delicate lilies. The palate enjoyed

I mean, none of that is bad in any way, but it also doesn't scream "Glenfarclas" at all. Bottled at 58.1% ABV after 9 years in ex-bourbon wood, let's just get to it: 

Nose: I'll give the official tasting panel credit, I do get tea and coconut. If I'm stretching it, I'll give them the blackcurrant jam as well. And the faintest hint of Sprite (lemon/lime). But I also get a surprising "clay" note - a real dank, earthy scent - along with a lot of oak. 

Adding water: Bitter cherry is added, otherwise largely the same. 

Mouthfeel: Quite a thick and full mouthfeel on this one. 

Palate: The nose was intriguing, but the palate breaks down for me into a riot of unpleasant flavors that never come together. Chocolate, chalk dust, young brash oak, bitter lemon zest, and a strong "stems and roots" flavor - overall it's quite bitter. 

With water: Slightly better than without. Melon rind, lemon pith, malted barley, musty hallways. Still a weird melange of unpleasant flavors. 

Finish: Bitter oak, dust, and baker's chocolate. Unpleasant finish, mercifully doesn't last long. 

Verdict: I honestly don't like this bottle very much at all. I freely admit - maybe it's me. This could definitely be my least favorite flavors all compacted together and bottled at a high ABV and a young age, so naturally I resist it. But maybe others would adore it? Hard to say. Without independent verification, I can't recommend it. Be wary of ex-bourbon Glenfarclas. 

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