Thursday, August 7, 2014

Laphroaig Quarter Cask

Laphroaig (la-FROYG) is what many drinkers would call hardcore. Like Ardbeg, it's not just intense, it's in your face, no holds barred, punch-to-the-mouth intense. It's not just smoke, it's coal tar, it's iodine, it's salt water and brine, sometimes it's even anchovies and heavy metals. Laphroaig and its heavier Islay brethren are not joking around. 


There is a very good reason that many drinkers try their first Islay Scotch, get hooked, and never look back. There is a certain wizardry to the balance of smoke and sugar, savory and sweet. That balance is a precious thing, and difficult to get just right, but Laphroaig does it. 

The Quarter Cask is an interesting expression. According to the distillery, whisky late in the maturation process is then transferred from the ex-bourbon barrels to the quarter casks - which are, as the name implies, miniature versions of traditional casks - the gist being that more of the whisky touches more of the wood, and thus matures faster. 

This whisky is somewhat revelatory. It's amazing that this five year (ex-oak) and seven month (quarter cask) whisky has such depth and such complexity. It's quite a beast...

Nose: Heavy smoke, iodine, honey, some light floral elements, sugar underpinnings. Maybe, just maybe, some orange (or orange blossoms) wafting about. 

Mouthfeel: Full as hell. Just blooms in the mouth. 

Palate: Here we go ... the beast attacks. Perfect balance of peat/smoke, savory elements that bring charred meat, very subtle sugars like vanilla and honey. All of it evolves slowly and steadily into an incredibly smooth old oak and smoked pepper (courtesy of the oak casks) that have multiple dimensions. The smoke is just everywhere, but it's rich and pleasant and can be approached from many angles. Astringent? If you want it. Sweet smoke? Like a BBQ. Deep smoke? Smoke pouring from smoke upon smoke within smoke. Light smoke? The softest of touches.

Finish: Gorgeous. Fruit finally peeks out from behind the giant smoke shapes. Juicy apple and pears spread their scent as the finish extends out on a long tar-built road of smoke. Enchanting. 

Verdict: IF you like very smokey Islay Scotch whisky... buy this without delay. If you DO NOT like smoky Scotch, perhaps sip this at a friends house, or at a whisky tasting. This is a near-perfect expression of Islay whisky, with a constantly-morphing smoke flavor that evolves and revolves. I know, maybe some hyperbole here - what about Ardbeg? Lagavulin? Bruichladdich? Caol Ila?

True - they are all excellent. But there is something particularly rich and balanced about this specific expression of Laphroaig. It reminds me strongly of the 16 year Lagavulin, with a slightly saltier, more iodine-forward profile. Less subtlety, more punch-you-in-the-nose-and-karate-chop-you-in-the-throat. 

Link to Laphroaig's website: http://www.laphroaig.com/qc/


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