It's been a year and a half since I last reviewed the official bottling of vaunted distillery Clynelish, and it's long overdue for a return look.
Aged 14 years in ex-bourbon casks, although rumors persist that a little refill sherry casking is present as well - I came across that claim on numerous websites - and bottled at 46%.
Diageo is infamously mum about most of the important aspects of their various single malts. 95% of the output of Clynelish goes to Johnnie Walker, as far as I can tell, despite their very high reputation in the independent bottling scene.
Is this colored? Almost certainly. Is it chill-filtered? Very probably. But my memory is that the famously waxy character of Clynelish still shines through, and this is a particularly delectable single malt. Let's explore...
Nose: Salt, brine, smoke... dry and sour at first, grows slowly (tropically) sweet over time. A strong but fading note of grilled meat - like souvlaki skewers, almost. Or prime rib served Pittsburgh rare. Soft candle wax, faintly - less than the last bottle I had. Soft orange, and some herbal or floral elements floating around like a halo. Hint of pineapple and mango. After the bottle level lowers a bit, some orchard fruit - apple and pear, and lots of baking spices like cinnamon and allspice. Maybe even some toasted coconut in there.
Mouthfeel: Yes, very waxy.
Palate: Orange, wax, brine, smoke, unripe apple, bitter herbs and spices, salt. A nice balance of orange sweet with leathery, salty dry flavors, all tied with a "Starburst candy" waxiness. More hints of tropical fruit flit around the tongue. Apple and coconut on the tail end. Way too easily drinkable...
Finish: Smoke, orange, salt, in turns. Medium to short length.
Verdict: Still a great dram. Still surprises me. The independent bottlings of this tend to be candy bombs with a waxy character - the official bottling here is much drier, more sour, more herbal, but still has a nice waxy orange note that underpins all the salt and smoke and wax and herbs etc. Hovers around $65-70 in my area - worth it, at that price.
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