Glenfarclas 21 Year (Second Take)

 

It's been almost exactly a year since I last had this magnificent 21-year scotch from Glenfarclas. Quite possibly the best-priced 20+ year scotch on the market (I obtained it for $135, less than even the 17 year goes for!), I remember this being full of fascinating, balanced flavors. 100% aged in Oloroso sherry casks - the standard Glenfarclas house style - and bottled at 43% ABV, this was one of the highlights of my 2021 drinking year. 

Glenfarclas in Scottish Gaelic means "valley of the green grass," and has been in the Grant family since 1865 - although Wikipedia says there is evidence it was in operation as far back as 1791, or perhaps earlier.

I have really never been disappointed by a bottle of Glenfarclas. They always offer something strangely satisfying, if not wholly complete, with their bottles. I am particularly a fan of their "105" cask strength expression. They were one of the first distilleries to open a visitor's center, in 1973, and someday I hope I get there, to shake someone's hand. In the meantime, let's revisit this 21 Year bottle of sherried scotch and see what happens: 

Nose: Ahhhhhhhh... what a nice nose. Sherry for days, of course: but the full array of sherry scents. Red wine gums, red berries, overripe red apples, furniture polish, old wood, yeast, leather, hints of glue, ripe red fruit. Subtle, tasty. Does well with time in the glass - everything gets stronger, coheres nicely. Cooked pear, mushrooms cooked in red wine sauce, mango, grilled pineapple - it's so rich and complex. Quite a rewarding nose here - although a little dim and a little soft, presumably from age. Nutty, after a lot of resting in the glass - almonds and cashews. 

Mouthfeel: Soft, chewy, silky. Surprisingly full given the proof. 

Palate: Interesting - very much more on the savory side of things! Dried red fruit (almost like fruit jerky - and especially dried cherries), tons of dryvoak and toasted oak flavors, some warming peppercorns, dry tobacco leaf, more berries, leather, mushrooms, burnt almonds. Brown sugar. Buttery and floral, as well. Some herbs, some spices - especially cinnamon. Not quit balanced - more meaty than sweet. Tastes its age - tastes like an Old Whisky. Lots of "old dry sherry" influence. You would never, never mistake this for a young whisky. Almost too oaked, perhaps, but the buttery, fruity notes keep it just sweet enough. 

Finish: On the longer side of medium length - curls of smoke, oak tannins, red berries, a little malt, a little sugar, but only a little. Spices and herbs. Really nice. 

Verdict: I like this a lot. I find it more complex than I did last year, but also drier, more savory. Batch variation? I remember the 17 Year being quite sweet - the extra 4 years have really stripped that away and revealed a more austere set of flavors underneath that are still worthwhile and sherry-forward: leathery, oaky, with rich berries and a buttery texture throughout. For its price, it is a real winner - but, like all Glenfarclas, it's a little off-centered, a little bit odd, despite all its many virtues. For those who don't mind drier sherry with lots of oak and some sulfur along the way.