Amaro Soldatini

 

Another fairly unusual/rare amaro, at least here in the US: Amaro Soldatini, from Distilleria Gualco, in the northwest of Italy near France (between Turin and Genoa). Interestingly, despite the name, the distillers themselves call this a "grappa senza nome" - Grappa Without a Name. 

The distillery was founded in 1870 by a former cooper, Paolo Gualco. The entire history of the family ownership can be found on their website - it's a great read! I absolutely delight in the black and white photo they include of the old Italian man smoking a cheroot. Right up my alley. 

Amaro Soldatini is made from 12 ingredients, ranging apparently from citrus fruit to spices to "medicinal plants." More recently, the website declares, they have improved the recipe by adding basil and oranges of renowned quality. Hey, you don't have to twist MY arm. This is bottled at 30% ABV and comes in a wonderful bottle with an old fashioned "string-and-wax" seal - like something you'd see 100 years ago. It's infused for a minimum of three months in glass and steel containers. Let's explore this uncommon amaro:

Nose: On the nose, this smells exactly like Campari - sugar, gentian root, chinchona, and strong citrus notes: orange, blood orange, et al. 

Mouthfeel: Syrupy. 

Palate: Interesting - it's like a smoother, thinner version of Campari: vaguey medicinal (cough medicine) orange and black cherry notes are offset by bitter roots and - yes, fresh basil, plucked right off the stalk. It's wonderfully balanced - specifically more so than Campari, which I often find is much too sweet. Here, everything is in harmony. At the end of the development, the sugar sticks to your cheeks, but perhaps a bit less so than the liqueurs it most resembles, Campari and Aperol. 

Finish: Short, but nice. The official note is "star anise," but I don't get that as much as I do orange pith - the pale connective tissue that binds the orange flesh to the peel. 

Verdict: A fascinating liqueur. I would love to try more from Distilleria Gualco, but have never seen even a single bottle from them anywhere, at any time. I may actually try to order one from a distributor - a rare move. This is basically an improved version of Campari in every facet. It would make for absolutely superior Negronis - it's so perfectly balanced, almost on a knife point between sweet and bitter. Excellent stuff - highly recommended if you come across some.