Glen Grant 17 Year (Signatory)

 

It's been some time since I explored the Signatory range of independently bottled scotch. Too long, in fact. Signatory provided me with my first, valuable looks at Mortlach, Linkwood, Dailuaine, and Clynelish. This bottle is of Glen Grant - a Speyside distillery from whom I have liked everything I've tried thus far. I have a Scotch Malt Whisky Society Glen Grant bottle in my cabinet as well, "Harvest Hayride Happiness," and it's astoundingly fragrant, fruity, and delicious. This bottle, at 43% ABV, is much less potent, but I suspect will be a very easy sipper and full of flavor. No colorating, no chill filtration!

This is part of Signatory's "Vintage" collection - I picked it up over similar bottles of Tormore and Inchmurrin largely because I know and trust the Glen Grant name. Distilled in 1997, bottled in 2015, it spent that time in - I quote - a "hogshead." I think it's safe to say ex-bourbon. Like most Signatory bottlings, there are virtually no other reviews on the web. Let's check back in with Signatory:

Nose: Yellow apples, yellow pears, faint odors of white wine, shortbread cookies, uncooked pastry, flecks of honey, hints of must and straight up dust. I have had a few older whiskies lately, and this falls right in line with what I experienced in the 18 year Glenmorangie. Distinctly "autumnal," like the Glenmorangie was as well. 

After some time in the glass, it becomes something like sweet and sour sauce (!). Apples, pears, but tart/sour. A weird indistinct meaty note. Hints of smoke emerge. Dry white wine notes. 

Mouthfeel: Medium, silky/oily. 

Palate: Interesting! More flavors here on the palate than you'd expect, and it's a bit sharp/bright with alcohol as well. I get oak, honey, a gentle cognac-like note, harvested hay, baked fruit (especially poached pear), tons of cinnamon, some freshly ground pepper, and some malt barley sugar. Quintessential middle-aged Speyside here. Light smoke also present. 

Finish: Quite a long finish for such a fruity dram - not even the hint of smoke to carry it along, just slow-drying oak, pepper, apple, and white grapes. In fact, there is a distinct "wine gums" flavor that sticks in your cheeks at the end. 

Verdict: Exceedingly fruity and pleasant, like both the other Glen Grant's I've had. This noses older than it tastes - shy, shadowy, and autumnal on the nose, bright like baking an apple pie or pear tart on a wooden worktable on the tongue. With white grape notes laced throughout. Another rock solid Glen Grant - this won't blow anyone off the face of the earth, but it is a very nice expression of a 15+ year bourbon-matured Speysider.