Sunday, July 24, 2022

Linkwood 8 Year (SMWS 39.217 "Crunchy and Homely")

 


Although this violates my "10 year rule" with Scotch Malt Whisky Society ("SMWS") bottlings - I generally won't buy anything under 10 years old unless it's really unusual in some way, I've been burned by a few too many underbaked examples - I decided to take a chance on this 8 year Linkwood. Partly because there is no fancy cask finish - just the core Linkwood spirit and first-fill ex-bourbon barrels - and partly because I just really like what Linkwood brings to the table. 

Here are the official notes:

A lovely fresh aroma of pineapple, sherbet and an Italian lemon liqueur called Limoncello was followed by deeper notes of butterscotch, fudge, tobacco and ginger marzipan. A hefty sweet spice hit on the palate like an old-fashioned Granny Smith apple crisp; fresh green apples coated in cinnamon-brown sugar and served with a salted caramel sauce. Water released a floral fragrant scent of jasmine and tulips as well as the warm and cosy feeling buttered crumpets and thick-cut marmalade give. To taste still spicy but now balanced with a cup of Earl Grey tea served with a slice of lemon and a spoonful of sugar.   

This tracks with what I like most about Linkwood - that fresh floral citrus sherbet quality, the bright tropical fruit, combined with a soft earthiness. The barrel here seems to have had some healthy interaction too, given the brown sugar and caramel notes. Either way, it reads as a very clean example of Linkwood, if a little younger than I'd like. 

One note: this is one of the worst nicknames the SMWS has ever come up with. Crunchy and Homely??? Who wants to drink that?? A really unappealing name. Bottled at 60.4% ABV. Let's go:

Nose: The immediate scent I got was bitter tobacco and grilled pineapple... but I let it sit and unwind for a long, long time (an hour), because in my experience these younger bottles tend to be a bit shy and need a lot of patience to display their best qualities.

So after a long time in the air, I get pineapple, mango, sharp sweet lemon, orange, lime, guava - tons of the usual bright Linkwood fruit. A lot of flower petals, too. Underneath is malted barley and some earthy farm smells - hay, tobacco, a little bit of grass cuttings. It's more or less exactly what I expected. 

With water: Stays mostly the same, with the addition of some rich vanilla or caramel custard, fresh green grapes, and perhaps a very slight accentuation of the malt barley. Oddly, I get a hint of smoke after adding water. 

Mouthfeel: Surprisingly oily and smooth on the tongue. 

Palate: Effervescent citrus and tropical fruit mingle with a lot of barley sugar and hints of earth. This is where the youth really shows - there isn't much depth here, it's a fairly shallow presentation. Which, I suppose, is what I should expect from an 8 year old. That said, the tastes it does present are quite pleasant. It's like a malty version of a turbo charged limoncello with a slice of pineapple.

With water: This is certainly better with water, which adds rich vanilla, coconut, and a greater sense of depth to all the flavors. I also get more of the floral aspect on the tongue with water.

Finish: Short but acceptable. Citrus-forward, with almost no oak influence (interesting!), mostly malted barley comes through. With water, coconut flesh is added, which is a real improvement. 

Verdict: Exactly what I expected: simple, but well-presented core Linkwood identity, enhanced by a good ex-bourbon barrel that adds vanilla and caramel with a little water. As always with these young SMWS bottles, I wonder what this would taste like at twice the age. As it is, it's still quite satisfying. Curious how this will develop further into the bottle. Recommended.

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