Tobermory 15 Year (SMWS 42.68 "An Atlantic Morning Dip")

 

This 15 year Tobermory, a single cask bottling from the Scotch Malt Whisky Society ("SMWS") to celebrate Summer 2022, caught my attention right away because it's an older expression and categorized by the SMWS as "oily and coastal," which is probably my favorite of their categories. Tobermory, situated on the Isle of Mull, makes both peated and unpeated whiskies, and this is unpeated. The peated stuff, released under the name Ledaig, is uniformly excellent. Here are the official notes:

The panel found this one initially sweet, medicinal and mentholated. Lots of barley sugars, malt extract, syrupy sweetness, cough medicines, herbal teas and fresh kiln air. Robust, malty and well-sinewed. Water revealed eucalyptus tea, menthol tobacco, varnished hardwoods, pine wood sap and herbal cough medicines. The mouth continued this medicinal theme with delicate notes of tar and embrocations. Bandages, pickled lemons in brine, malt vinegar and wood char. Reduction gave everything a lovely 'olive oil sheen' and brought robust notes of heather ales, aniseed, bouillon and a kiss of herbal smoke. Matured for 13 years in a bourbon hogshead before transfer to a 2nd fill heavily charred hogshead.

Yes, yes, and more yes. Sweet, medicinal, malty, herbal, "sinewed." I am most curious about the hardwoods/pine sap (which I attribute to the heavy char finish), and the brine. This sounds exceptionally coastal! Bottled at 59.5% ABV. Let's see exactly how coastal:

Nose: An interesting note: lemon Ricola cough drops mixed with tobacco leaf and olive oil. I get the "malt extract" note - it's almost like Marmite. A bitter tea note, like over-steeped black tea. A "wet clay" note, which I think is what they mean by fresh kiln air. Lots of coastal island notes here - it's distinctly on the slightly bitter/slightly dry/slightly savory side of things. Sweetness only develops later in the bottle, when a distinct woody vanilla note appears along with some honey. It's welcome, to counterbalance the savory/earthy flavors. 

With water: bitter lemon, earth and tree roots, smoke, anise... and more wood than before. 

Mouthfeel: Medium thin, a little silky, coats the tongue well. 

Palate: Ahhhh... the palate is quite interesting indeed. First, some alcohol burn. Then, more smoke than you would expect, even with the heavy char finish! Surprisingly "hazy" with smoke and char. 

Iodine and other medicinal flavors. Tarry ropes. Lemon brightness, olive oil heaviness, and lots of oak. It follows up on the nose well without actually replicating it. Ginger and licorice. In an odd way, this comes across as what unpeated or lightly peated Ardbeg might be like: many of the same core flavors. 

With water: A little richer with water, and a little sweeter. Vanilla emerges and pairs with the lemon: freshly baked lemon pie, which is a lovely note, especially when paired with: mentholated smoky stones, salt, olive oil, and lots of dense oak. Ginger root. Perhaps better with water, for me. 

Finish: Long smoke, grilled lemon, and finally the malt vinegar note emerges. 

Verdict: A curious dram. It's so reminiscent of Islay! Heavily coastal, with torrents of smoke from the heavy char finish, lots of lemon, lots of salt and minerality, iodine and olive oil, and a nice vein of ginger and anise; but with a countering vanilla/honey sweetness. 

Like Talisker: you sort of have to be in the mood for it. It's very oily, very coastal, and would pair well with seafood for sure. A good representation of the Tobermory style, although smokier than most. Worth consideration.