This is the first bottle of Glentauchers I've ever had - a single cask, full sherry matured bottle from the Scotch Malt Whisky Society ("SMWS"), aged 10 years. First seven years in American oak ex-Oloroso, last 3 years in Spanish oak ex-Oloroso. Bottled at an insane 66.3% ABV.
Glentauchers is owned by Pernod Ricard (along with Scapa, Aberlour, Glenlivet, Longmorn, Jameson, Powers, Redbreast, and others), but is virtually unknown because apparently 99.9% of the output is funneled in blends under the Ballatine's, 100 Pipers, Chivas Regal, and Royal Salute brands.
Here are the official notes:
A stiff and bold spirit that will surely get your blood pumping! The nose evokes freshly baked bread, molten sugars, and roasted hazelnuts with a rush of white peppercorn. The palate reveals smoked cherries, black currant, and an abundance of rich baking spices with a texture that is rich and creamy. Water helps tame the beast as we are treated to a beautiful array of crushed ginger biscuits, caramelized peaches, and a hint of rosemary. A delightful finish to a raw and otherworldly experience. After 7 years in an American oak Oloroso butt, this whisky was moved to a 1st fill Spanish oak Oloroso butt for the remainder of its maturation.
Spoiler: it is, in fact, stiff and bold. Those are not good things, here. "Get your blood pumping" in the same sense that a slap in the face and a punch to the gut will get your blood pumping.
Well, no sense in delaying the inevitable:
Nose: A very hot and prickly nose, and surprisingly closed off - sherry-dominated whiskies tend to be very expressive and fragrant. After sitting for some time, it does uncoil a little - I get blackened wood, black currant, char siu (Chinese BBQ pork), smoked cherries (this is a very good identification by the official notes), and smoked spices like cinnamon.
With a REALLY long time in the glass (I let it sit for two hours!) it is significantly nicer on the nose, but still stiff and brash. The dominant note becomes sticky caramel or treacle. But over and under all the other flavors is a thick band of pure alcohol. It's very unpleasant, and I wish I could lower the ABV here by ~10%, which is something I almost never say.
With water: It opens up a TAD more and becomes more fruity: cherry, plum, apple, grape. I think this might be a whisky that I have to wait on - leave the bottle for a few months and let it oxidize in order to open up.
Mouthfeel: Medium to thin. Mildly oily.
Palate: For a full sherry maturation, this has a surprisingly thin body. I wonder what the original distillate was like. More cherry, ash, currant, and wood spice... but it is rather one-note and really presents like cherry tobacco.
With water: A bit better in terms of texture, but pretty much still a cherry tobacco fest. A rich fistful of ginger is added to the spice rack. And I completely get the "rosemary" note from the official notes - it gets startlingly herbal over time.
Finish: Wood, ash, pepper, cherry, cherry pits, and spice. Medium-ish.
But whoa, what's this?! The final gulp was like cherry-topped shortbread cookies with ginger powder... surprisingly nice note.
Verdict: Unsure what to make of this on the first pour: it doesn't seem really ready yet. But I fully admit that maybe - *maybe* - it's going to become wonderful and rich with a lot of ripening time in the bottle. I'm curious! It certainly improves if you let it sit two hours.
But as it stands, it's kind of a curiosity: spicy, herbal cherry tobacco in a glass. Thin body, not much finish, and the more interesting notes tend to disappear too easily. I'll revisit this one: it has potential, but the neck pour is a little uninspiring.
I fully understand the nickname given to it by Society member Neil Patrick Harris - the 66.3% is outrageous on this, just socks you in the face. A very aggressive whisky, but with (so far) little depth to compensate.
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