Highland Park 16 Year (SMWS 4.304 "A Proper Summer Dram")

 

The final sample provided at the March 2023 outturn tasting of the Scotch Malt Whisky Society ("SMWS") was easily the favorite of basically everyone in the room: a 16 year Highland Park, finished in a PX cask that had been shaved, toasted, and recharred (!). A very curious choice, since you'd expect the PX influence to be literally scraped and burned away by the STR process. That said, the result was incredible, as we'll see in a bit.

Here are the official notes:

We imagined carrying peat slabs in a wicker basket across heathery moorland as we took a break and shared a robust intense red wine (100% Grenache) out of a leather Bota curved wineskin. Bursting with cherry and black fruit flavours and tempered with smoky notes of spice and pepper - a proper BBQ dram! Following reduction, the scent was what we imagined a Spanish style rum that was matured in ex-smoky Islay whisky barrels would smell like, sweet but also plenty of smoke from roast lamb. After fourteen years in an ex-bourbon hogshead, we transferred this whisky into a shaved, toasted and re-charred 1st fill PX barrique.

Very curious notes - peat, red wine, leather, cherry, smoke, pepper... wow! Rum matured in ex-Islay barrels?? Bottled at 58.3% ABV, this was known as "A Proper BBQ Dram" in the UK. Let's see if that holds up:

Nose: Lovely. Reminded me very strongly of some of my favorite Ardmores: fruity, softly smoky, a bit oily and even industrial, flowery, and "dark" which is hard to characterize beyond saying "it's not bright." A very intoxicating nose. Surprisingly peaty/smoky for Highland Park - probably a result of that recharring.

Mouthfeel: Viscous and pretty thick. 

Palate: Industrial apples - like eating a red apple after changing your car's oil. Heather, tar, gentle peat, black fruit (plums, cherries, berries), hints of spices. 

Finish: Smoke, wood, baked orchard fruit. A lovely, long-lasting finish. 

Verdict: This was the universal favorite at the tasting. Virtually everyone I spoke with had this at #1 or #2 on the night. It was curious how the PX sherry managed to squeak through the floorboards here: black fruit, a general syrupy texture, and some leathery spices here and there ... complemented by a full array of fruit, smoke, and interesting industrial touches. My favorite Highland Park in a long time.