Saturday, May 6, 2023

Glen Spey 13 Year (SMWS 80.39 "Achingly Beautiful")

 


The fifth out of six samples at the Scotch Malt Whisky Society May 2023 outturn tasting at the Jack Rose Saloon in Washington DC. This won a gold medal at the 2023 San Francisco World Spirits Competition, and is already long sold out on the SMWS website. It's a 13 year Glen Spey, finished in a Marsala barrique (!), bottled at 57.8% ABV.


Here are the official tasting notes: 

World Spirits Competition 2023 GOLD MEDAL

The first comment was “achingly beautiful dark fruits” soon followed by marzipan, star anise, mulling spices and apple chutney with plenty of raisins. On the palate a wave of dark chocolate, candied walnuts and caramelised pears next to dark sweet cherries and oriental spices such as galangal root, saffron and turmeric awaited us. Water added fruits of the forest, sticky toffee pudding, and baked plums in honeyed wine on the nose. The taste was that of thin salami slices on rye bread refined with Kirsch (cherry schnapps). Following 11 years in an ex-bourbon hogshead, we transferred this whisky into a first fill Marsala barrique. 

Well, hard to argue with that, isn't it? I won't waste your time - here are my impressions: 

Nose: After four straight cask strength drams in about an hour, who knows how accurate my tongue and nose are at this point. But I got butter, yeast-on-toast, honey/caramel, brown sugar, and strong new leather. 

Mouthfeel: Full, coating, viscous. 

Palate: Linen (?), wet leaves, bitter root/root beer, oak tannins, strong waxy overtones, hemp rope (!). A very unusual series of flavors, totally unmoored from the official notes. 

Finish: Quite dry - sawdust, leather, more rope, oak. 

Verdict: I liked this a lot - it was very popular at the tasting - but again, I wish I had more time with it. The Marsala barrique really made itself known with sherry-adjacent flavors. A good dram, lots of flavor and character. If you find one at auction, I suppose, check it out. 

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