Mannochmore is a very recent distillery - it only opened in 1971 - and was closed from '85 to '89. In the 1990s it became "known" for the jet-black Loch Dhu ("Black Lake") bottling, which was, frankly, a curiosity or novelty. It's owned by Diageo, which means it's usually consigned to blend fodder except through independent bottlers.
That said, I've had a couple independent versions of Mannochmore that were good: rich Speyside delights that pleased on every level. So imagine my surprise at seeing a new bottle from the Scotch Malt Whisky Society, labeled "old and dignified" at only 15 years old (!!!), and nicknamed Luscious Velvet. Wow! Here are the official notes:
A dark and heady brew! "Luscious!" noted one Panellist. The nose bloomed with kirsch, damson jam, roasted figs in honey and prunes soaked in armagnac before delicate soot and camphor touches added firmness and depth. A little water revealed a superbly dank dunnage earthiness, lots of of sticky fruit cake, damp pipe tobacco in an old leather pouch and hints of cured meats, toasted nuts and winter mulling spices. The neat palate had the immediate thickness and presence of clotted cream, along with notes of blueberry ham, stroopwaffels, salted caramel ice cream and classical flavours of sultanas, ginger, liquorice and cola syrup. Water revealed darker tones of coffee grounds, toasted pecans, dried orange peel and herbal liqueurs.
Well, wow - a heady brew, eh?? Cherry, figs, Armagnac, soot (!), tobacco, wow, wow, I am very interested. Sounds like a true sherry bomb. Bottled at 53.1% ABV from a combination of PX, Oloroso, and ex-bourbon hogsheads.
Let's find out what's going on here:
Nose: Well, it does smell far, far older than 15 years. Very old whisky has a particular woody "sawdust" quality and "old dusty library" scent, and somehow this has that (!?). Reminds me strongly of very old Glenfarclas I've had (30 year).
I get: Old, old wood, libraries (paper, dust), black cherries, roasted figs, manuka honey, and - oddly - rice cakes. There is definitely some soot here as well.
Mouthfeel: Surprisingly oily and silky. Medium body.
Palate: VERY interesting: tastes 30-40 years old - ancient pipe tobacco (cherry shag), ancient oak flooring, very old leather, old paper, aged meat in a smokehouse, roasted nuts, coffee, and some potting soil. I agree with the "blueberry ham" note, as well as the cola syrup. These casks must have been really exceptional.
Finish: Pretty long - leather, dust, oak, soft pepper, orange peel, gentian root (like Campari).
Verdict: Holy moly, Batman, this is stupendous. I can't believe this is 15 years old. I would pay good money to see what on earth this could possibly taste like at 25-35 years!! This tastes far, far older than its age. I assume a magical combination of casks are to credit here. It's sold out now, but keep an eye on the auctions, or ask a friendly SMWS member to pull a sample: it's worth seeking out.
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