The fourth of six samples offered at the June 2023 outturn event of the Scotch Malt Whisky Society (SMWS), at the Jack Rose Saloon in Washington DC. This was a 15 year port-finished Auchroisk (a favorite of mine), bottled at 59.1% ABV.
Here are the official notes:
Like liquid sunshine, golden aromas of sweet sultanas, creme caramel and egg custard tarts dusted with cinnamon joined quince jelly on a charcuterie board. The palate was abundant with soft fruits, custard remained but now alongside baked apples, apricot jam and peaches and pears poached in red wine. Adding water delivered us to a tropical beach with hot sand, dried papaya and smoked beef jerky. Soft peaches returned on the palate to compliment gooseberry fool, citrus groves and a hint of coal tar on the finish. After spending 13 years in an ex-bourbon hogshead this was transferred to a 2nd fill port barrique for the remainder of its maturation.
Very good lineup of flavors there - I'm especially intrigued by the confluence of egg custard tarts with charcuterie (!). Let's see how it fared:Nose: Honeysuckle, melon, cookies 'n' cream ice cream, dark stewed fruit, vanilla, flowers, citrus, a growing bouquet of spices (especially cloves and nutmeg). With water, some chocolate and chili powder.
Mouthfeel: Thicker, silky.
Palate: Citrus-forward: orange, lemon. Lots of spice, more chili peppers than the nose. Nice fudgy chocolate. Peach. Something wispy like cigarette smoke on the back end.
Finish: Medium length - spices and oak predominate.
Verdict: Quite interesting. Yet again I ask - why is every damned Auchroisk cask from the SMWS finished in a wine barrel of some kind?? Red wine, port, sherry, etc etc. I've not once seen a "virgin" Auchroisk, and I don't know why. Contractual obligation? Off-profile casks that need taming or rounding? No one is saying.
Either way, this was good whisky, and popular at the table and around the room. No one stood up straight and said "I'm buying this RIGHT NOW," but it did generate near-universal nods of approval and appreciation. I suspect this bottle would age particularly well on a shelf and would taste even better in a few months. That said, it's good even now.
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