Glenfarclas 9 Year (SMWS 1.265 "Oma at the Cinema")

 

The first of six samples offered at the June 2023 outturn event of the Scotch Malt Whisky Society (SMWS), at the Jack Rose Saloon in Washington DC. This was a 9 year ex-bourbon Glenfarclas, bottled at 58.3% ABV. 

Here are the official notes: 

Toffee, coconut and vanilla coated apple crumble with cinnamon spice, as the sweet scents of a rose garden combined with un-malted grains and popcorn. The palate brought a spicy fury that was tamed by honey, lavender and tarragon, before stone fruits and grapefruit pith dried the finish. With a dash of water, aromas adopted waxy textures like oily lemon skins and furniture polish. Walnuts and hazelnuts then arrived with buttered hot crossed buns and marzipan. With the heat on the tongue now tempered, heather honey, soft fudge and fondant icing emerged alongside milk chocolate, toasted cereals and stone fruits with nut skins on the finish.

I'll be honest with you, I haven't had the best of luck with these ex-bourbon Glenfarclas offerings. I don't know why SMWS never releases full sherry maturation Glenfarclas - which is how Glenfarclas invariably releases their own whisky. Maybe it's contractual? Maybe it's just for the variety? Either way, the young ex-bourbon Glenfarclas bottles aren't terrible, but always seem half-ready and not well integrated. Let's check how this one does:

Nose: It's sweet - Brown sugar, almost ripe fruit, toffee/caramel, tropical candy. Over time, chocolate and coffee emerge as well. 

With a few drops of water: orange and vanilla, like those Orange Julius stands from the 1990s. It opens up well with water. 

Mouthfeel: Medium, nothing particularly good or bad. 

Palate: It follows the nose closely: brown sugar, tropical candy, chocolate, coffee au lait.

Finish: Coffee, oak, burnt sugar. 

Verdict: Not bad. Certainly better than some of the others I've had. That said, I still wouldn't pay ~$110-120 for this and be happy about it. Like the others I mentioned, this just seemed "not quite there yet." I don't know if it needs more time, or a finish, or if these are simply off-profile or what. Pleasant, and a nice way to open the evening, but also easily forgotten. No one at my table (shoutout to Andy, Sam, and Colleen) mentioned this again after it was done.