Friday, September 8, 2017

Ardbeg An Oa (NAS)


It's finally here! The new fourth permanent installation in the Ardbeg lineup, An Oa ("Ahn Oh") is among us at last. An Oa is named for the Mull of Oa, a southern peninsula on Islay. I have been calling, emailing, and polling every liquor store in the Washington DC, Maryland, and Virginia area trying to get my hands on this. At last, randomly, I did a lunchtime google search and found it advertised in the Georgetown neighborhood of Washington, at Potomac Wine and Spirits. The salesman was completely nonchalant, but noted that they had been flying off the shelves far faster than they had estimated. 


An Oa is positioned slightly above my beloved 10 Year in terms of price ($53 to 45, where I am), and is made up of several cask varieties: first-fill charred oak, ex-bourbon, ex-Pedro Ximenez sherry, and "others," according to Ardbeg. Bottled at 46.6% ABV and un-chill-filtered, without age statement, here is the newest Ardbeg core expression:

Nose: Much softer than the usual Ardbeg explosion! This is one of those noses that changes when allowed to breathe. At first it reminded me of Talisker - very strong maritime notes of brine and seaweed, broad peat, medium smoke - along with a certain white wine note, and hints of bright fruit (pineapple, orange, lemon) that resolves, unusually, into strawberries covered in chocolate. There the same smoked BBQ pork note that I recall from Uigeadail. 

But, given time in the air, the bourbon casks come forward and the nose transforms a bit - the peat is now paired with coal dust, and the bourbon casks come through as a nice sweet pudding note: butterscotch, vanilla, and chocolate.  

All across this spectrum, this is complicated whisky in the nose, but without the usual smoke blast from Ardbeg. This reminds me, a bit, of the difference between Laphroaig 10 Year and the new Laphroaig Select Cask. Complex, but a little less heavy. 

Mouthfeel: The usual thick, oily, viscous Ardbeg feel. 

Palate: This is more familiar territory - many of the usual Ardbeg flavors here (light smoke, seaweed, iodine, salt, peat, linseed oil), but paired with a very bright array of flavors. A strong wood flavor dominates, clearly from the charred oak casks. A nice light toffee is paired with chocolate and coffee grounds. Subtle herbs, like star anise and cloves. A whole bouquet of light citrus fruit. The smoked pork savoriness. 

Finish: A really great finish - the wood steadily recedes, leaving behind chili peppers and chocolate, a little smoke, and a bright citrus note that is particularly delectable. 

Verdict: Ardbeg has definitely done something a little different this time. This is distinct from the 10 Year, Uigeadail, and Corryvreckan - it's softer on the smoke and peat, has brighter citrus elements, while maintaining many of the traditional Ardbeg notes. This is a great "Ardbeg light," especially for people who really can't stand the usual intense smoke-and-peat bomb that Ardbeg tends to provide. I think I would place this a little below the 10 Year in my personal pantheon of Ardbeg expressions - and both a bit below Corryvreckan and Uigeadail - but I respect it, and I appreciate it for what it does. And, more importantly, I like it a lot. Another win from Ardbeg, in my book. 

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