Deanston is a distillery I knew almost nothing about until I found this bottle on sale ($35). It's a Highland whisky, made by a small crew of ten men, and owned by the same company that owns Bunnahabhain and Tobermory and Black Bottle blended. I happen to love Bunnhabhain, so this is of particular interest.
I was surprised to see that this bottle of Deanston 12 Year is given the modern "craft presentation" - no chill-filtration, no coloring, bottled at 46.3%. This was apparently the whisky in the now-defunct Wallace liqueur, which I've heard about but never had - it consisted of Deanston mixed with berries and herbs. I imagine something like Drambuie but more astringent and less sweet.
So, Deanston is something of a mystery. Owned by people I respect, presented in the best possible manner - but a whisky I've never encountered or heard mentioned by other drinkers. Let's see what we have here...
Nose: Quite delicate. Peaches. Honey. Alcohol fumes. Heather and grass. Soft vanilla. Floral - other reviews have mentioned rosewater, and I can't disagree, although I get more lavender.
Mouthfeel: Rather thin, but oily.
Palate: Very similar to the nose, but a little more. Nutty malt, maybe hazelnuts. Honey. Maple syrup. The floral element continues. Light herbs, like pepper and coriander.
Finish: Oak and pepper and the same coriander dryness. Medium length.
Verdict: This is a tough one to judge. It has a lot happening, and the flavors are good, but it doesn't have quite enough to displace the competition. This is a very subtle and intriguing whisky, but also one that doesn't necessarily reward exploration or patience. It gives you what it has, and that's about it. I got this bottle for a discounted price, but I've have a hard time justifying recommending this over others in the same price range.
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