This is the first time in quite some time I'm reviewing a bottle from a distillery I've never covered! I could have sworn I've had Benrinnes (alternately, Ben Rinnes) before, but my archives say I haven't.
Benrinnes is a Speyside distillery owned by Dewars, and dates all the way to 1826. It's very close to Mortlach, Cardhu, Dufftown, and many others in the heart of Speyside. Until 2007 they did an unusual partial triple distillation (like Mortlach), but this bottle dates to after they renovated and reverted to a simpler process.
The bottle hails from independent bottler Single Cask Nation, who I have had some fantastic drams from, including a very lovely young Ben Nevis aged entirely in ex-Amontillado, and also a truly sublime Dailuaine. So I'm very optimistic about this one. According to WhiskyFun, the signature Benrinnes flavors are: "Caramel, sherry, orange, oily, ham, smoky, roasted, meaty, malty." Yes to all of that! Aged 11 years in ex-bourbon, bottled at cask strength of 57.4% ABV. Let's see what Benrinnes brings to the table:
Nose: Very strong scents of orange oil, orange flesh, vanilla pods, pale caramel, and honeysuckle emerge from the glass and fill the room. This is NOT a shy nose. There are elements of apple and pear and grapefruit here. The grapefruit emerges the longer you let the glass sit.
With some water: Becomes a tad more sour, more citric. Unripe melon gets added to the mix.
Mouthfeel: Middle of the road in terms of body and viscosity.
Palate: Big sweet wash of fruit here: orange, grapefruit, apple, grapes, peach, key limes. Vanilla and oak, intertwined. The oak continues as a bitter stripe after the vanilla fades. Some spices on the bitter side: cloves, mace.
With water: Ironically, becomes sweeter - a big swath of honey appears overtop the rest. The finish is less dry as well - the oak doesn't dominate as much.
Finish: A bit dry and oaky: citrus, oak, a bit of pepper, hints of baked apple. Mostly oak and citrus.
Verdict: This is an exceedingly pleasing, fruity dram. Very spirit forward - I get the sense everything but the drying spices and the oak comes from the spirit itself rather than the refill ex-bourbon hogshead. And that spirit is pungent, sweet, and well-integrated.
This is a very good Speysider, and interesting in contrast to the 16 year Linkwood I just had - they are both bright and fruit-forward, but the Linkwood is more tropical and also has hints of smoke here and there; the Benrinnes is more citrus and sugar, and overall "sunnier," if that makes sense. A good hot weather dram - recommended if you come across it and like lighter fruitier scotch.
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