Kilchoman 3 Year (Cask Chasers)

 

Photo credit goes to the Cask Chasers website, who chose this cask from Kilchoman and are promoting it - I found out about it via the Discord server for the Scotch Malt Whisky Society, where one of my colleagues and fellow whisky aficionados clued me in to the release (thank you!). 

The cask was chosen by the DC area representative of the alcohol distributor Impex, Jared Card. He won't remember me, but I certainly remember him - he hosted the first two or three whisky tastings I ever attended, in concert with the now-shuttered liquor store Arrowine on K street NW. He may have also facilitated the Kilchoman tasting I attended in 2017, where the sons of the founder presented the entire line up to that point, including some new make spirit (!). 

Safe to say, I've been a fan of Kilchoman ever since - I still have the t-shirt! - and although I've had a couple bottles that weren't quite stellar, I've also had some wonderful ones. And no outright duds. 

This bottling is a single cask offering from a fresh bourbon cask, aged three years (a few months shy of four), which makes it tied with Wolfburn for the youngest officially bottled scotch I've had. Bottled at 61% ABV, let's see what all the fuss is about: 

Nose: Pungent green olives brace the nostrils right out of the gate - it was strongest on the neck pour, but remains on subsequent pours as well. It fades with time in the glass, though. Next up, I scent some honey, some orchard fruit (green apple, yellow pear), salt, straw or hay, seawater, anchovies in oil, smoke and heavily maritime peat. A rich and enticing Islay nose, it's amazing this is only 3 years young. 

With a touch of water: Fudge, and tangy/sour fruit candy (like... grape-flavored Nerds?!). Plus the above-mentioned notes. Water adds a couple dimensions without taking anything away. After quite some time resting with water, I get an unusual "smoked kippers" note - I love it. 

Mouthfeel: Very heavy, full and chewy. 

Palate: More sedate than the nose, but still quite energetic and full of flavor - a big alcohol burn that leaves behind smoke, salt, honey, apple, peat, hot pepper, stone, hints of olives and fish. Really well integrated for the age. 

With water: Even more relaxed than the nose when neat - honey apple, salty smoke, seaweed, chocolate chili pepper... and all very "clean." High-quality spirit. 

Finish: Smoke, hot pepper, freshly cracked black pepper, wood, anchovy, straw. Doesn't last quite as long as you might guess, but it's still very good. 

Verdict: It's pretty incredible this is only 3 years old. I understand now why this cask was chosen and why they are promoting it with post and podcast - it's fabulous stuff that punches WAY above its age statement. If I tasted this blind, I would easily have guessed it was a 10-12 year old heavily peated Bunnahabhain or something. 

I don't know how Kilchoman does this, but I'm very impressed. Highly recommended for peat heads looking for (a) something great and tasty, (b) something unusual, and (c) a very well-crafted product.