Monday, September 1, 2014

Hibiki 12 Year Blend



Technically, although Hibiki is a "whisky" it's not a Scotch because, of course, it's not made in Scotland. Made in Japan by beverage giant Suntory, whose most well known product in the USA, for years and years, was the sickly sweet neon green melon liqueur Midori. 

But the Japanese have always had a strong affinity for Scotch. Scotch arrived with the British back in the 1800s and the complexity and craftsmanship of Scotch (and whisky generally) appealed immediately to the Japanese. Now, in 2014, they make some of the best whisky I've ever had - Scotch or otherwise. I have a very good friend with a highly trusted and refined palate who claims that a 40 Year expression of one of the Suntory whiskies is among the very best he's ever had - and he's had all the very good stuff. 

Going with this theme, I am going to go so far as to say that Hibiki 12 Year is the single best blend I've had. It made me forget entirely about the Johnnie Walker rainbow, about Famous Grouse, White Horse, Teachers Highland Cream, Dewar's 12 Year, even Ballantine's 17 Year (which is also excellent). All of them. This is some serious stuff. The craftsmanship and artistry going into Hibiki is of a very high degree, and it offers the various senses more than many entry level single malts. 

Hibiki (apparently Japanese for "echo" or "resonance") is made of a blend of whiskies from Suntory's two distilleries, Yamazaki and Hakushu, both of which have single malt offerings here in the States. It includes whisky aged in rare Japanese Mizunara oak casks, as well as plum liqueur casks. 

Of the component whiskies: Yamazaki I like, Hakushu I hate. I'll review both in time. But Hibiki, the blend, outshines both - quite unusual. One final note: the decanter it comes in is a work of art in itself, with 24 facets, apparently representing the 24 traditional Japanese seasons. 

Nose: So fragrant... peach, rosewater, full pineapple, wide wide swaths of honey, sweet herbal notes, apple peel, and a ghostly specter of plum. 

Mouthfeel: SILK. Purest silk. It was once described somewhere as "dangerously drinkable" and the unforgettable mouthfeel is one big reason why. So smooth. Absolutely no alcohol burn. 

Palate: A long progression of evolving flavors: toasted marshmallow and light pepper, orange citrus, some faint sugary cereal, a ton of honey. The honey! It has so many angles, and is intriguingly spicy - peppered honey, like a fancy salad dressing. The peach from the notes reappears as well. I have read in many other tasting notes of strong banana notes, but I didn't get them in my bottle. Quite complex.

Finish: Medium length and quite smooth, with the ghostly plum appearing briefly again (especially if you look for it specifically), but mostly a warm tingling peppercorn wash. 

Verdict: Highly recommended. $60 a bottle here, at which price it's STILL a steal. I would strangle a hobo in self defense to try the older versions of this (30 year!!). 

Link to the website for Hibiki 12 Year: http://www.suntory.com/whisky/en/hibiki/

No comments:

Post a Comment