This was my introduction to The Balvenie - a distiller whose every Speyside expression seems to garner glowing reviews from professional reviewers and casual drinkers alike. I have had a handful of their whiskies, and am fairly chomping at the bit to try a few of the older, more expensive varieties (I'm looking at you, PortWood 21 Year).
Light or heavy, Speyside whiskies are known for their sweetness, and this is something that the folks at The Balvenie seem to specialize in - a very rich, endless sweetness that is never cloying or sticks in your teeth. Instead they present a light, dancing sweetness that has facets and details and rewards patience.
This one is aged 14 years in ex-bourbon casks, and matured in ex-rum casks. Interestingly, the rum casks don't come from any giant rum producer, but are filled in-house - David Stewart, their malt master, selects the rum, fills the American oak casks, and matures it until he decides they are ready to house the Scotch. This allows a greater amount of flavor control over the whole process, which I appreciate. I wonder how many of the hand-selected rum flavors actually come through? Only Mr. Stewart knows for sure, I suppose.
I first had this at Smoke & Barrel in Washington D.C., and the bartender said it was their most popular whisky (that week? that month? of all time? Unclear). I immediately liked it, enough to buy a bottle, which is only around $45 where I am.
Nose: Toffee! Lots of it. Some milk chocolate mixed with candied fruit. The fruit elements are bright, not dark - green grapes? No apple, but definitely something vaguely exotic is present. Other reviews I referenced all said "passionfruit," which is not something I've tasted lately but I'll credit all their opinions. So, passionfruit. No real rum scent in the nose.
Mouthfeel: Creamy. Surprisingly so. Chewy.
Palate: Ah, there's the rum. The rum comes across at the very beginning and again at the finish. It's not super strong, and it's not spiced rum or anything elegant like Rhum Barbancourt, but instead pure white cane rum like Bacardi or Flor de Cana. These deep burnt sugar notes are mixed with vanilla and oak from the ex-bourbon casks, and some pronounced cereal notes. Almost bread-like, like a frosted donut. Exceptionally balanced and well-rounded.
Finish: This is where the rum really makes itself known. The peppery oak gives way to a very round, distinct rum note. It's sweet and strong and alcoholic but also unique - I've never had another Scotch like this.
Verdict: Recommended. This is a great example of a sweet whisky that isn't TOO sweet, but instead walks the tightrope like an acrobat between various levels of sugar - scorched, light, fluffy, toffee-thick, and bourbon-esque. Very well made. This is good stuff, and a deal at the $45 range.
Link to The Balvenie 14 Year website: https://us.thebalvenie.com/our-range/caribbean-cask-aged-14-years
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