Friday, July 28, 2017

Bowmore 12 Year


Before now, I've had only the most basic Bowmore offering, the Bowmore Legend that I reviewed some time ago, and found a little thin and one-note, but still liked anyway. Since then I've always been curious about the aged expressions, especially since I've met multiple whisky drinkers who espouse strong, positive opinions of them.
I thought I'd start with the 12 Year, since it was on sale for $40 near me, and I've been in an Islay mood lately, as evidenced by my multiple reviews of Islay fare in recent weeks.

Bottled at 40% ABV, colored and chill-filtered. Internet reports a mix of ex-bourbon and ex-sherry casks, I will muse on this later in the review.

Nose: Interesting nose! Iodine and vanilla frosting. Smoke, but subtle. Sea salt. Chili peppers. A very dry sherry element, like fino or manzanilla. Let the glass sit long enough and a very intriguing floral bouquet emerges. Not the dreaded "french whore perfume" of 1980s Bowmore, but a savory garden lavender or rose bouquet or lemon verbena - earthy. It's light and well in the background, but detectable.

Mouthfeel: Oily and surprisingly full considering the low alcohol percentage.

Palate: Very good - earthy. Peat and smoke. Tropical fruit, like cool pineapple, maybe even kiwi. Honey and oak. The floral element is a bit stronger here - fresh heather? Grass? Lavender? Rosewater? Hard to tell. Maybe some brown sugar and salted butter. Chili pepper again.

Finish: Wow, so here's the smoke. Ashes! Strong ash, along with very light oak, medium body cigar tobacco, and chili pepper. Unusually dry finish. The ash flavor sits in my mouth for long minutes afterward.

Verdict: This is deceptively good, and really deserves a long look. It's easily overpowered by Ardbeg and Lagavulin and Laphroaig, but it is just as complex. I would describe this as tightly wound, and needs attention and time to unwind the various flavors. I was surprised how many things were happening here, and equally surprised by how the iodine-vanilla-and-chili nose worked its way to a ash-and-pineapple-and-tobacco finish by way of many other savory flavors. I enjoyed this quite a bit!

This is rich, and I wish I knew exact what barrels were going into this - obviously ex-bourbon (vanilla frosting and oak flavors) and strongly suspect ex-sherry as well. I was also surprised how full this tasted at only 40% - I'm very curious what this would be like at cask strength. I'll be looking for more Bowmore!

No comments:

Post a Comment