SPECIAL: Brennivin 80th Anniversary Edition

This isn't technically a whisky. But it IS finished in Islay whisky casks for four months, and is interesting enough in its own right to be covered here. And, as far as I can determine, this is among the only reviews of the 80th Anniversary edition of Brennivin on the net!

Some backstory: lately I've been tearing through the novels of Icelandic mystery author Arnoldur Indridason, who is right up there in the pantheon of modern Nordic authors for me. Starting with the first novel published here, Jar City, I've been knocking his books down like dominoes, one after the next.

In his books, many characters drink the national spirit of Iceland, Brennivin - the name means "burning wine," which is a fantastic name for any spirit. Iceland had prohibition just like the United States did, in fact starting even earlier in 1915; but there was a partial repeal in 1935 for spirits only - and Brennivin was the first spirit out of the gate to get back in the game. 


The government attempted to discourage people from drinking it by including a famous black label with a skull on it (!!), which resulted in people humorously calling it the "black death." As I understand it, people who actually drink Brennivin are fairly uncommon - it's a ceremonial spirit these days, although now it's being imported into America, maybe that will change. 

To celebrate the 80th anniversary of the reintroduction of spirits, they released this edition of Brennivin: finished in new-char American Oak casks, ex-bourbon barrels, and - most interesting of all - ex-Islay whisky casks (!). I can't find out which distillery. Bottled at 40% ABV.

Brennivin is an aquavit, made from fermented potato mash with caraway seed flavoring. How does it fare with the Islay influence?

Nose: Interestingly, smoke is present right from the outset - the four months in the Islay cask is really apparent. Beyond that is caraway, and a note much like menthol or eucalyptus, and anise. None of the traditional sweetness of the bourbon or oak barrels comes through in the nose. Instead, it's quite astringent - smoky and herbal. 

Mouthfeel: Thin, oily.

Palate: Wow, this tastes much more interesting than it smells. Islay peat, caraway seeds, lavender, light anise, rye bread, oak tannins, and a ton more herbs. Maybe dill? 

Finish: Light smoke, but also a nice sweetness arises: vanilla from the oak, I think. 

Verdict: Surprising stuff. I like this, but I can see how others would not. It's bracing and semi-medicinal at times with all the herbal qualities, but it's also complex and tasty and has a nice smoky bread quality - like bread slightly burned in a brick oven. I like it - there is also a red label "winter edition" that is finished in oloroso sherry casks which I bet is even more interesting that this. Can you imagine sherry and dill, caraway, fennel??