Saturday, March 27, 2021

Old Pulteney 13 Year (SMWS 52.36 "Shades of Black")

 


This part two of my Scotch Malt Whisky Society (SMWS) journey with Old Pulteney - the first bottle, I really didn't care for. This one is filed under their "oily and coastal" category, nicknamed "Shades of Black" (oooooh) and aged for 11 years in ex-bourbon casks, then finished for 2 years in a first-fill ex-PX hogshead. This is similar to the previous bottle, which was categorized as "Sweet, Fruity, and Mellow." In that bottle, I felt the essential character of the Old Pulteney spirit was lost. I am therefore heartened to see this listed as oily, coastal. This is presented at 59.2% (excellent!). Let's explore...

Nose: Richly sherried - that finishing cask definitely is put to hard work here: golden raisins, old cognac, citrus flecks, wood tannins, and rock salt. The longer this sits in the glass, the more it unwinds, and the more I like it. A very delicious nose - rich and balanced. 

Mouthfeel: Thick, viscous. 

Palate: Ahhhh... there's the Old Pulteney I remember. Salty, with loads of candied ginger. Sweet malt sugar. Caramel apples. With water, close-grained oak and espresso. The sherry is also still present, although lessened - the golden raisins from before, figs, dates. This is as balanced as the previous SMWS Old Pulteney was unbalanced - sweet and salty. Unsure about "black," though. 

Finish: Cigar wrappers, close-grained oak, pepper, sweet raisins combine for a medium-length finish. Quite tasty. 

Verdict: This is a good sipper, a good dram in general. I quite like "Shades of Black," which marries the oily, coastal, briny style of Old Pulteney with the sweetness of sherry finishing - this time, entirely successfully. I celebrate it. 


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