While browsing at one of my favorite liquor stores here in Washington DC, I came across four dusty bottles of Blackadder. One was a 21 year Auchentoshan (far from my favorite distillery), two were Miltonduffs I already have, and the fourth ... was this 11 year "Legendary" Aultmore. Why is it legendary? I have no idea. Blackadder's website doesn't explain. I assume it's a particularly good cask? I guess I'll find out soon enough...
Aultmore is owned by Bacardi. It was originally built in 1895 by the same man, Alexander Edward, who owned Benrinnes. It was totally rebuilt in 1970-1971 or so, and most of its output goes into the popular Dewar's blends. As such, it's mostly available from independent bottlers: I've had one dram from a Classic Cask bottle, and one from a Scotch Malt Whisky Society bottle, but that's it. So I really have no idea what to expect.
This bottle came from an oak hogshead (it doesn't say, but it has to be ex-bourbon), and like all Blackadder Raw Cask bottles, has zero filtration or coloration or ... anything. Poured right from cask into bottle, and in this case served up at 57.6% ABV. Let's see what is so "legendary" about this 11 year Aultmore:
Nose: Quintessential Speyside nose: pear, honey, apple, hay, malt. Pear is the predominant note, which is wonderful because that's my favorite fruit.
With the merest touch of water: green melon, more pear, apple, banana, lychee, coconut, grapes, a whole bouquet of fruit. Extremely fruit-forward.
Mouthfeel: Surprisingly heavy.
Palate: Follows the nose but then it keeps expanding ... just an incredible blossom of flavors on the tongue. Pear converts to poached pear, pear drop candies... heavily spiced apple pie... cloves and allspice... thick swirls of honey... creamy oatmeal... hints of earth and farm... honeydew melon. Just lovely. There is a lot going on here, and I am sure I am missing a few notes. I'll update this later if I catch them.
With just a splash of water: Fruit tart, with baking spices and fresh butter. I normally have a clear preference for a whisky - either decidedly with or without water - but in this case, I think it's a toss-up.
Finish: Fairly brief, but nevertheless well integrated. Spices, soft wood, honey, apple, malt.
Verdict: Well, I get the "Legendary" thing now - by all accounts, this appears to be a particularly outstanding cask of Aultmore. The funny thing is, almost all Blackadder bottlings can be said to be particularly outstanding!
But even so, this is a *real* standout Speyside single malt from an almost completely overlooked distillery - I always say this with Blackadder, but this surely must be the best possible presentation of younger Aultmore possible. It's rich, fruity, spicy, mildly earthy, complex, huge flavor development, nice finish... it puts all the pieces together. Another fantastic Blackadder.
At this point I think I can safely say: if you see a Blackadder Raw Cask bottling, just buy it. They are all good. I've had about a dozen now, and they were all far, far beyond expectations. Even the Smoking Islay 9 Year blend - my least favorite so far - was quite clean and good for what it is.
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