Friday, February 17, 2023

Clairin Sonson 2018 (unaged rhum from Cabaret in Haiti)


When I was 13, a Haitian/Salvadorean family moved in next door to me, and they had a son my age who I got along with amazingly from day one. Now, 30 years later, our two families are one family, and consequentially I love all things Haitian - the music, the culture, and - of course - the rum. 

Haitian rum ("rhum") has been world famous for about 150 years now - made from pure sugar cane juice, Rhum Barbancourt is one of Haiti's most famous exports, and is currently in its 6th generation of same-family ownership. 

But a variety of rum that goes under the radar for most people is Clairin ("clear" in Creole) ... unaged rum. I have heard whisky people spread soft rumors about it for years now, but today - for the first time - I found it on a liquor store shelf. And bought it without hesitation. 

Clairin Sonson is unaged sugarcane syrup rum that hails from Distillery Sonson Pierre Gilles, in the village of Cabaret, Haiti. Bottled at cask strength, 53.2% ABV, the bottle has this blurb:

"Clairin Sonson is produced in Cabaret, a village located in the district Arcahaie, where the town is like the whole country: teeming with colourful life. The syrup comes from indigenous sugarcane variety Madame Meuze, which covers about 60 acres, dotted with banana trees and other fruit varieties. This rum is distilled in pot still and heated over an open fire."

Let's not waste any more time: here we go - 

Nose: This is *exceedingly* funky. Gasoline, wax, paint, salt, ocean brine, white vinegar, olives, tomatoes, and raw onion. Super wild scents - it reeks, hahaha. Nothing soft or fruity whatsoever about this. 

Mouthfeel: Medium, a bit chewy. 

Palate: Wow - the palate is much bigger than the nose. TONS of banana, BBQ smoke, pepper, some gasoline or kerosine, some acetone, chalk, wax, salt, flour... After some time in the glass, I get tomatoes (Bloody Mary mix), black olives, and an indistinct orchard fruit. Other reviews say it's apple, so I'll just blandly second that. Hints of cola. Mango? Aggressive stuff. Reminds me of very young mezcal. 

Finish: Surprisingly huge finish - long smoke trails, embers, banana, pepper ... lasts an age and more. Wonderful finish, you'll carry this around with you for a while. 

Verdict: Wow, this is funky, incredible stuff! If you like high-ester rums (or just offbeat spirits), this will be a favorite. If you like smooth Bacardi-like rums, you will hate this. It's divisive. But awesome. I love it! More please. Going to pour another glass...

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