Hatozaki Small Batch Japanese Blended Whisky

 

I bought this on a whim because it was new to me and on sale. No idea what to expect - a blend made with 100% malted grain, a combination of bourbon, sherry, and Mizunara oak casks, 46% ABV, combination of import spirit (!) and native Japanese, named after a lighthouse. And yes, Japanese whisky is in a weird sort of gray zone wherein they can import whisky from other places, age it in Japan, and then export it as Japanese whisky. It's not exactly a secret, but they don't shout it from the roof either.

The current market for Japanese whisky apparently supports this approach. Eventually Hatozaki will be 100% made in Japan, I'm sure... but not yet. What about this small batch bottle? I'm going to find out and share it with you - Let's go!

Nose: Initially, on a fresh neck pour, this smells like glue, tequila, and perhaps cat pee (not kidding). Exceedingly harsh early nose, one of the worst offenders I've ever come across. Needless to say, it takes a LOT of time in the glass and the open bottle to open this one up. After time, and 1/3 of the bottle gone, you get sweet and sour lemon, lemongrass, regular grass, smoke, and leather. The nose is a bit closed off - you have to fight a bit for the flavors. Still, thank god it outgrows that cat pee - no idea what was going on with that exceedingly rough neck pour. 

Mouthfeel: Right in the middle of the road in terms of viscosity. 

Palate: Very simple flavors, but pleasant - fruit bouquet, lots of honey, wood tannins... and a certain smoked quality. 

Finish: The fruit and the wood continue together but ultimately this is a very short finish, though some smoke is left on the tongue. 

Verdict: Honestly, I'd avoid this unless it's on sale for less than $40. It doesn't have enough dimension, nor is it pleasing enough, to warrant any higher of a price. This feels like a first step by a new distillery, and it's a hesitant step. There are better options in this price bracket, including in Japanese whiskies (Iwai, Toki).